Today marks the birthday of Sjaak Hullekes, creative director and co-founder of Hul le Kes, and a symbolic moment in the evolution of the brand. Just one day before the opening of our Amsterdam pop-up store, and freshly back from Paris Fashion Week. A moment for reflection and celebration alike, in an interview with Sjaak about Amsterdam, Paris, purpose and the power of imperfection.
The Hul le Kes pop-up store can be found at Herenstraat 9, Amsterdam. From October 9 – October 12, open every day from 11.00 am to 6 pm.
“I feel especially grateful that we’re able to showcase Hul le Kes at such a wide stage; first in Paris and now in Amsterdam. We talk a lot about what we stand for, but you only truly see the beauty we speak of when you are able to wear one of our garments”.
Showcasing Hul le Kes in both cities means more than growing visibility. To Sjaak it is about accessibility, inviting people to engage directly with the materials, textures and the stories behind each piece.
“Fashion can feel like a puppet show; the noise, the rush. After seeing the high contrasts of what is happening in Paris, to what we do, it only deepens my belief that things must be done differently. We’ve found a rhythm of our own and I am proud of that”
The Amsterdam pop-up is different from the pop-up at 0fr. Paris Bookstore, but both with a similar meaning. “It’s a change for people to step into our world” Sjaak explains. “A photo or a fashion show an only say so much. But in a space like this, where you are able to touch, wear and buy; our values, our love for what we do all comes together.”
There is a quiet strength in how Sjaak speaks about the brand’s evolution. “As a designer, maker and initiator I feel more grounded now than ever before. Sebastiaan and I have built something real, not just a fashion brand, but a movement people can belong to”. He sees the pop-up Store in Amsterdam not just as a retail environment, but as a continuation of the philosophy Hul le Kes is built upon.
“We’ve laid a foundation we believe in and now we want to invite others into it; not just to see a product but to feel a sense of belonging”
Asked about the balance between artistic integrity and commercial necessity Sjaak doesn’t hesitate: “Tensions like that are making movement. Like a charged battery, it works productive for me. I do not crave total artistic freedom. In fact I prefer the restrictions we set for ourselves; like using only post-consumer textile waste. It sharpens my focus as a designer.”
To Sjaak commerce is not the opposite of creativity. “If someone buys a Hul le Kes garment, I hope it means they’re choosing to stand with us. That it is not just about how it looks, but also about our social and circular values.”
Next to commerce and creativity there are two other pillars in Hul le Kes’ mission; circularity and social care. Working with people at the margins of the labor market brings daily lessons.
“It’s not that I’m constantly learning something new, but I am always aware: This could happen to me, to anyone. And that shapes how I treat people; with dignity, care and equality”.
The social roots of Hul le Kes run deep into Sjaak’s personal history. Before he became a designer, Sjaak trained as a social worker. “That background shaped everything. I don’t design in isolation, but I like to co-create. Our pattern maker, volunteers, everyone under our roof has a voice that matters. The design is not finished until they’ve had their hands on it.”
At its core Hul le Kes is about reflection. “We hold up a mirror to show the beauty that society tends to overlook: in materials, in clothing and in people” says Sjaak.
That belief comes to life in moments of transformation. “When a jacket comes back from stitching and it has a small tear, and we mend it with care: that repair becomes a jewel. The garment isn’t diminished, it is elevated. And it is the same with people. They come to our studios feeling broken, our hope is they leave feeling seen, and proud.”
Despite its ideals, Hul le Kes still faces misunderstandings.
“People assume our materials are cheap. But processing waste; sorting, washing cutting by hand, is incredibly labour intensive. Much more costly than using new fabrics. And the idea that we survive on subsidies because we’re a social studio? That’s another myth. The small reimbursement we get covers basic care, but we have to generate real income, just like any other business.”
During Paris Fashion Week we unveiled our Spring/Summer 2026 collection, created entirely from upcycled, post-consumer textiles. “We want to prove that these discarded materials still carry value. That through skilled tailoring, they can become garments that matter. That is the message we want to send.”
His presence as a designer and creative director of Hul le Kes is stitched into every piece. “I often begin with: would I wear this? But I also open the floor. Sometimes a design emerges that surprises me. That is the beauty of working collectively, everyone deserves a stage.” One of the most moving sources of inspiration comes from the sheer volume of discarded textiles Sjaak encounters.
“At 2Switch or ReShare from the Salvation Army, the amount of textile waste is staggering. It feels like a duty, to show what can still be made from what others throw away. And if that process helps someone rediscover value in themselves, then it’s done its job twice over.”
Looking ahead Sjaak sees both urgency and opportunity. “Our biggest challenge is changing how people view waste, and helping them realise that not every ‘conscious’ purchase is truly circular. Consumers have been misled by decades of marketing. It is time to unlearn.”
That change will not come easy as big brands have more money, and therewith more reach. “We rely on word of mouth, on people who believe what we do and share that to others. That’s how we grow.”
Sjaak’s birthday wish:
“I usually only make wishes when I find a paperclip, but if I could ask for something now: it is to keep this team close, to find joy in what we do, to make a living from it for everyone in our team, and to keep spreading our story. That Hul le Kes gets the stage it deserves.”
The Hul le Kes Pop-up Store in Amsterdam can be found right in the center: Herenstraat 9, Amsterdam. It is open from Thursday October 9 until Sunday October 12, every day from 11.00 am until 6.00 pm.
Our Hul le Kes Store Arnhem will be closed these days, and will be open again on Wednesday October 15 at 11.00. The Hul le Kes Store Arnhem can be found at Hommelstraat 27, Arnhem. You can always shop online here.
All pictures by Ot van Lieshout, backstage during the lookbook shoot for autumn/winter 2025.
